Tarantulas are solitary, mostly nocturnal arachnids kept primarily as display pets. Many commonly kept species are hardy and slow-moving, making them suitable for beginner hobbyists when basic husbandry is followed. Handling is generally discouraged to reduce stress and prevent injury (to both the spider and the human).
Beginner: Chilean rose hair (Grammostola rosea/porteri), Curly hair (Tliltocatl albopilosus), Mexican red knee (Brachypelma hamorii/smithi), Mexican red rump (B. vagans), Pink zebra beauty (Eupalaestrus campestratus), Brazilian black (Grammostola pulchra).
Intermediate (faster/skittish): Greenbottle blue (Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens), Costa Rican zebra/knee (Aphonopelma seemanni).
Advanced (fast/defensive or medically significant venom): Cobalt blue (Cyriopagopus lividus), Indian ornamental (Poecilotheria regalis).
Note: Advanced species are best as display-only animals.
Adult size: Typically 4–7" leg span, depending on species.
Lifespan: Females 12–30+ years (species-dependent); males 3–8 years.
Urticating hairs(New World species like Brachypelma, Grammostola): can cause skin and eye irritation. Use gloves; avoid face/eye contact. If hairs get in the eyes, seek medical care.
Old World species(e.g., Poecilotheria, Cyriopagopus): no urticating hairs; rely on speed/defense and have more medically significant venom. Do not handle.
Bites: Rare with proper care but possible. Clean minor wounds; seek medical attention for severe reactions.
Match enclosure style to the species’ ecology (terrestrial, burrowing, or arboreal).
Terrestrial: Floor space ~3–4× leg span; low height to prevent falls (interior height ≤1.5× leg span).
Arboreal: Taller enclosures with vertical cork bark/tube anchors.
Burrowers: Deep, compactable substrate (10–20+ cm/4–8"+).
Lid: Secure, well-ventilated; escape-proof.
Hide: Provide at least one snug hide (cork bark, half-log).
Coconut fiber (coir), unfertilized topsoil, peat, or mixes; keep clean and free of pesticides/fertilizers.
Avoid cedar/pine shavings.
Ambient temp:70–78°F (21–26°C). Most healthy species do well at room temperatures within this range. If supplemental heat is required, warm the room or use a side-mounted heat source with a thermostat (never under-tank for terrestrials; avoid heat lamps).
Humidity & moisture:
Arid/grassland (e.g., Grammostola, Brachypelma): Mostly dry substrate, good ventilation, a water dish; ~50–60% RH.
Tropical (e.g., Aphonopelma seemanni, Poecilotheria): Slightly moist lower substrate layers with excellent cross-ventilation; ~65–80% RH (species-dependent).
Always provide a shallow water dish(bottle cap for juveniles, ceramic for adults). Clean/refill regularly.
No special UVB required. Normal day/night room light is sufficient. Avoid intense heat/bright lights directly on the enclosure.
Feed captive-bred insects: crickets, dubia roaches, locusts; occasional mealworms/superworms. Avoid wild-caught insects.
Portion: Prey size ≤ tarantula’s abdomen length.
Frequency:
Spiderlings/juveniles: 3x/week, small prey.
Subadults/adults: Every 7–14 days (some slow species eat less).
Remove uneaten prey within 24 hours (immediately if premolt is suspected). In-molt tarantulas are vulnerable to feeder attacks.
Signs of premolt: Reduced appetite/refusal to eat, darkening exoskeleton (especially abdomen), sluggishness, web “molt mat.”
Do not disturb or feed during pre-molt and molt. Increase enclosure humidity slightly for tropical species (without making substrate wet) and ensure peace/quiet.
Post-molt feeding: Wait until fangs harden (typically 7–14 days for adults; 3–7 days for juveniles) before offering food.
Normal: Burrowing, webbing, hiding for long periods, nocturnal activity.
Stress indicators: Persistent frantic pacing/climbing glass, repeated hair-flicking, refusal to use hides, sustained elevated posture. Review enclosure (temps, humidity, hide, vibrations).
Best practice is minimal to no handling. Tarantulas can be injured by falls; stress can predispose them to illness.
If movement is necessary (enclosure cleaning/transport), use the catch-cup method: gently guide the spider into a deli cup with a soft brush, cover, and move.
Do not co-house. Tarantulas are solitary and may cannibalize.
Dehydration: Sunken abdomen, lethargy, “death curl.” Provide a water dish; gently place the chelicerae near the water. Seek veterinary care if not rapidly improving.
Trauma/falls: Can cause internal injury/hemolymph loss. For minor leaks, some keepers use cornstarch to help clotting, then seek veterinary care. Significant bleeding is an emergency.
Retained exuviae/incomplete molt: Humidity review and prompt veterinary assessment.
Mouth/spiracle contamination or parasite issues (e.g., nematodes): Excess salivation, feeding difficulty, foul odor—requires veterinary evaluation.
Mites/mold: Usually husbandry-related; improve sanitation/ventilation and consult a vet for safe remediation.
Dyskinetic syndrome (DKS-like signs): Uncoordinated movements/tremors; etiology unclear—supportive care and vet assessment.
Bring the tarantula in its enclosure or a secure, ventilated travel container with its hide. Minimize vibration/heat/cold stress.
Bring the most recent shed (exuvia)if available—useful for sexing and health assessment.
Do not feed within 24–48 hours before transport. Ensure a water source is available and the container is cushioned from jolts.
How often should I clean? Spot clean routinely; full substrate changes every 6–12 months or if heavily soiled/moldy.
Can kids handle them? Not recommended; observe only.
Why isn’t it eating? Often premolt or normal fasting—check husbandry; if fasting persists >6–8 weeks in juveniles or there’s weight loss/lethargy, contact a vet.
Can I use heat lamps? Avoid—risk of desiccation/overheating. Maintain safe room temps instead.
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