Ferrets (Mustela putorius furo) are a domesticated subspecies of the European polecat (M. putorius). As their scientific name implies, they are in the taxonomic genus Mustela which comprises all ferrets, weasels, mink, and polecats. The high family Mustelidae includes all of these in addition to badgers, otters, and wolverines. These intelligent, playful and interactive creatures can make great pets. Despite being a nocturnal species, ferrets adapt to our daytime schedules well.
Average Size: Adult ferrets weight about 1.5 to 3 pounds. Almost all ferrets in the United States originate from Marshall Farms, where they are bred, descented, and fixed prior to sale. Only a small population of independent breeders exists in parts of the United States.
Legal restrictions do exist for the ownership of ferrets so make sure to check with your state and local laws before deciding to pursue ferret ownership. An example, while ferrets are legal in Arizona they are not in California.
Ferrets are obligate carnivores, meaning they are physiologically adapted to eat diets higher in protein (meat) than carbohydrates with little to no fiber content. The diet that is chosen for ferrets has a significant impact on the development and management of gastrointestinal disease and endocrine disease. The incidence of ferrets with inflammatory bowel disease and insulinoma is much higher in the United States than in many other countries. There are two factors that may contribute to this: 1) the majority of the ferrets in the United States are from a controlled breeding population and 2) ferrets in the United States are most offered kibble based diets of varying quality. Therefore, discussing diet options with your veterinarian and getting our ferret patients started out on a good quality diet sooner is the best way we can help them in the long run!
Foods high in carbohydrates and fibers like fruits, bananas, sugary cereals, dairy products, and vegetables should be avoided. These foods can have a negative effect on their digestive system and cause health problems. Use caution when offering store-bought ferret treats since many of these are high in carbohydrates. Check the label before you buy it! Small pieces of cooked chicken or fish can be offered as rewards.
Whole prey or a frozen nutritionally balanced meat diet, such as fresh-frozen thawed rats, mice, rabbits, or quail. These seem to reduce the risk of gastrointestinal or endocrine disease in the long term. Ferrets on whole prey diets have smaller, firmer, and less odorous stools. Additionally, feeding whole prey diets seem to be beneficial for maintaining healthy teeth by reducing the build-up of plaque and tartar.
*CAUTION: The CDC does not recommend feeding raw diets to pets. Foodborne illnesses that affect both people and pets such as Salmonella and Listeria bacteria have been found in raw pet foods, even packaged ones sold in stores. Be sure to practice appropriate food safety. Additionally, the longer that food is frozen, the more degradation there is to the nutritional quality of the food. Do not keep furred or feathered food items for more than 4-6 months, or less if it is not in an airtight bag.
Kibble based diets for ferrets should be high in protein (30-40%), low in carbohydrates, and contain moderate fat (15-30%). Dog food and cat food are NOT appropriate diets for ferrets and can cause health problems.
We highly recommend Wysong ferret diets. Wysong is a freeze-dried, grain-free, kibble diet. Freeze drying (versus cooking) preserves many of the nutritional aspects of a raw diet with a decreased risk of exposing your family and pet to disease-causing bacteria such as salmonella. It comes in two varieties, Wysong Epogen 90 and Wysong Digestive Support, both are available in our store areas at all locations.
*Grain-free is recommended, WITH CAUTION: There is a strong association within members’ exotic animal veterinary field that diet that includes pea flour, pea protein, or lentils has been correlated with the formation of urinary tract stones (kidney, ureters, bladder, and urethra). This has been supported by an increase in a certain type of stone that was previously considered uncommon in ferrets (called a cysteine stone). If pea protein or lentils are listed as an ingredient we recommend avoiding that kibble.
There are a few online forums you may wish to join to learn about other homemade diets. Please be aware that not every thread is written by knowledgeable people and that you should always double-check the information found on the Internet before assuming it is true! Any homemade diet should be assessed by a Veterinary Clinical Nutritionist. Additionally, be aware that even small substitutions make large differences in the nutritional makeup of a diet.
It is very important to transition slowly when switching to a high protein diet to help avoid problems such as diarrhea. If you are switching to Wysong from another brand of ferret food we recommend starting with the Digestive Support variety. Slowly introduce the food over 3-4 weeks (or longer) by gradually increasing the proportion of the new diet each day using the following guidelines*:
Week One: 25% New Diet, 75% Old
Week Two: 50% New Diet, 50% Old
Week Three: 75% New Diet, 25% Old
Week Four": 100% New Diet, 0% Old
*If your pet starts developing any signs of stomach upset (diarrhea, vomiting, etc.) give us a call.
Since ferrets naturally eat frequent small meals, food and fresh clean water should be available at all times. Most ferrets drink readily from water bottles and all ferrets seem to enjoy splashing in water bowls.
Ferrets need a large cage that is "ferret proofed" to prevent escape; likewise, a house should be "ferret proofed" so that electrical cords and other dangerous household items are not accessible by the ferrets.
Two ferrets can live in a wire cage measuring 48 x 24 x 24 inches, with a solid floor. Additional space is recommended if the ferrets are not allowed to roam the house for exercise daily. Due to poor ventilation, glass aquariums are not recommended.
Shelving, hammocks, or tiers may be incorporated into the cage to provide more room to sleep and play. PVC tubes and large cardboard tubes make great hiding tunnels.
Ferrets enjoy digging and burrowing into soft materials such as recycled paper products or pelleted products. If used, 1-2 inches should be placed on the floor of the enclosure. Avoid wood shavings as they can be associated with allergic reactions in some animals. However, this is not necessary and many ferrets do well with newspaper or paper towels are floor coverings.
Avoid towels or fabrics that contain long fibers as these may cause a serious surgical condition known as a gastrointestinal foreign body (GIFB). Short fiber fabrics (such as fleece) should be provided for ferrets to burrow and hide in.
This is an essential part of your ferret's habitat. Items such as towels, old shirts, or commercially produced ferret beds or hammocks will provide not only a place for your ferret to sleep, but to feel safe and secure. It is worth repeating that all cloth items should be inspected and any frayed edges or trailing strings or thread removed. If holes develop, throw out the item so your ferret does not get entangled and possibly injured trying to crawl through too small an opening. Provide at least one sleeping area for each ferret.
Ferrets can be litter box trained and prefer to eliminate in a corner of their enclosure. Use pelleted litter or recycled paper products like Yesterday's News or Carefresh instead of clay or clumping litters. Multiple litter boxes can be placed throughout the house for when your ferret is not in their cage.
It may help train a ferret to use a new litter box by adding a small amount of soiled litter from its regular litter box. Make sure the litter boxes are positioned in corners where the ferret can see the rest of the room -- If a litter box is in an open position, a ferret will not feel comfortable using it.
Never scold or spank a ferret or otherwise punish it if it goes outside the litter box. It will not understand what you are doing. It is far more effective to praise the ferret when it is actually using the litter box.
Some ferrets can be slow to learn to use the litter boxes outside their cage. In that case, enclose the litter box with a barrier. You will probably notice that your ferret goes to the bathroom at a predictable time after it is taken out of its cage. Some do it right away, others do it after 5 minutes, and some only do it if they have been eating right beforehand. You can then place it inside the barrier and leave it there until it uses the litter box. After a couple of times, the ferret should get the idea and the barrier can be taken down. You may have to do this with each litterbox so it learns all of the locations.
If not litterbox trained, feces and urine-soaked fabrics should be removed 1-2 times daily and replaced with fresh material. Litterboxes should be cleaned of feces and urine 1-2 times daily and disinfected with a diluted bleach or vinegar solution weekly. Bedding should be changed weekly, or more frequently if needed. The ferret's enclosure should also be cleaned weekly with mild soap and should be thoroughly rinsed and allowed to completely dry before reintroducing the ferret to its home.
Ferrets do well at a temperature between 50 and 80°F. They are susceptible to overheating when exposed to temperatures over 90F for prolonged periods. Heatstroke can be deadly -- do not expose your ferret to warm summer Arizona weather!
Ferrets do well alone or in groups. They may play aggressively together and show other behaviors such as territory marking and hunting. If frightened, ferrets can show defensive behaviors such as hissing, screaming, and may try to bite. Ferrets may sleep up to 18 hours a day.
Ferrets need at least 2 hours of exercise a day outside of their cages. Soft rubber toys are not appropriate for ferrets. Ferrets can eat parts of these toys and develop severe medical problems, such as blockage of their digestive systems. Toys that are OK for your ferret include paper bags, cloth toys made for cats, and hard plastic toys (such as Nylabone), or metal toys. Throw out cloth toys that start to show visible threads or strings or where the stuffing is coming loose and throw out any plastic items that seem to be easily chewed into smaller pieces. Tubing such as PVC pipes, mailing tubes, or dryer hoses makes good exploration zones. If ferrets are let out of their enclosures to play, the area must also be "ferret proofed¨ to prevent the ingestion of harmful materials or chewing of electrical cords.
Most ferrets have their anal glands removed (descented) at a very early age (5-6 weeks old), this occurs at the same time they are spayed or neutered. However, ferrets produce a musty smell even if they are surgically descented. This is due to oil-producing glands in their skin. Baths can be given when necessary, but avoid frequent bathing, which can dry out their skin. Use a ferret or mild puppy/kitten shampoo and do not apply a conditioner.
Ferrets shed their fur twice a year. Combing them during this time can help eliminate loose fur. Nails should be trimmed and ears should be checked and cleaned weekly or as needed.
It is a good idea to brush your ferret's teeth with a softy baby toothbrush, cat toothbrush, or even just cotton-tip applicators. Enzymatic kinds of toothpaste used for cats and MaxiGuard gel work best. Brushing daily is best but even once a week or once every two weeks is better than nothing at all. Even with regular brushing, many ferrets go on to develop tartar and gingivitis so we recommend teeth cleaning as part of the annual care program for your ferret. This procedure is done under general anesthesia. With a proper dental care program, your ferret will have all its teeth even when it reaches old age.
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