A wire or wooden frame cage with a wire flooring of approximately 14 gauge wire (1” x 1 1/2” square openings) is recommended. A solid floored area should be provided for resting and to prevent sore feet. A hard-bottomed hutch or even a dog crate can also be used for housing. Never use aquariums or solid-walled cages as these have poor ventilation which can result in respiratory illness. Cages should be chosen using the “3 hop rule” - meaning that a rabbit, no matter what size, should be able to do three hops in a row across their cage floor. This should allow enough space for a litter or nesting box as well as space to sprawl out.
Rabbits should be kept in the coolest and least humid area of the house. A recent study has shown that bunnies kept in warm humid environments with poor air circulation had a dramatic increase in incidence of disease over bunnies kept in cool, dry environments with good air exchange. Damp basements are one of the worst areas to keep rabbits. Rabbits live in large social groupings in the wild and depend on daily social interaction, so cages should be placed in an area with moderate traffic.
Housing rabbits outside in Arizona once the daytime temperatures get into the 80s and above should be discouraged due to a risk of heat stroke.
Recommended beddings include Carefresh brand bedding and aspen shavings. Cedar and pine shavings should be avoided as they contain aromatic oils that are irritating to the respiratory system and can cause rabbits to develop respiratory disease.
Adult rabbits naturally will choose a corner of the cage as their bathroom. A low-sided cat litterbox in that area filled with recycled paper litter can be placed in this area for litterbox training. Placing some stool in the box will attract the animal to use it. Rabbits often spend a fair amount of time in their litterboxes. This is normal. Because their urine also has a very strong the litter will need to be changed frequently. Appropriate litters are Care Fresh, Cat Country, Critter Country, Yesterday's News, and Papurr. NEVER GIVE A RABBIT CLUMPING CAT LITTER!
A rabbit’s diet is the most important thing to do correctly. An improper diet can lead to diarrhea or constipation which can be life-threatening and should be treated as an emergency.
A good rabbit diet consists of loose hay (preferably grass hay), pellets, fresh leafy greens, herbs, and small amounts of fresh vegetables. Anything beyond that is a "treat" and should be given in limited quantities.
Hay should make up as much as 80% of a rabbit’s diet. Hay is high in fiber and is necessary to keep a rabbit’s gut functioning properly and proper ware of a rabbit’s teeth. It should be available at all times. Stay away from pressed hay, as with most processed foods, it has lost some of its vital nutrients.
Pellets were formulated for rapid growth in rabbits raised for meat and fur in commercial rabbitries. They are very high in protein and calories. In addition, they also are low in fiber, causing the normal movement of the digestive system to decrease. Because of this pellets should only make up a small portion of a pet rabbit’s diet. Pellets should be fed as follows: 1/8 cup pellets per 4 lbs. body weight per day. Plain pellets are best. Probably one of the best pellets on the market is those manufactured by a company called Oxbow available at www.oxbowhay.com. Avoid giving pellet mixes with colored pellets, seeds and dehydrated vegetables. These are very high in fat and sugar which will lead to obesity and will slow down the digestive system leading to obstruction.
Alfalfa pellets and hay can be fed to young bunnies. Alfalfa is dense in calories and nutrients and also has high levels of calcium, which are fine for a growing rabbit. However, after reaching 7 months of age all the extra calcium in alfalfa may cause kidney and bladder stones. Adult rabbits should be fed timothy-based pellets and other forms of hay such as timothy, Bermuda, or orchard grass hays.
Dark leafy greens should be fed to your rabbit every day. Greens are high in fiber, Vitamin A, and other essential nutrients. Give 1 heaping cup of greens/4 lbs. body weight/day. Carrots and other vegetables make wonderful treats and can be given in small amounts to rabbits as they are very high in carbohydrates.
Sugar is something most bunnies need in very little amounts. Avoid sugary treats such as seed sticks or yogurt drops. Rabbits have sensitive digestive systems that do not handle large amounts of these items well. In addition, rabbits can become addicted to these junk food items and would rather eat these versus a more healthy diet.
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Water should be available at all times and should be fresh and changed daily. It may be offered in a bowl (make sure it is heavy, so the pet will not knock it over), or in a water bottle. Do not use medications or vitamins in the water, as the bunny may not drink enough if the taste is altered. Vitamins are not necessary if the rabbit is on a good diet. The same goes for salt blocks, if the rabbit is on a good diet, these are probably not necessary either. Salt blocks are recommended however for breeding animals or those kept outside year-round.
Because rabbits’ teeth continually grow they need to chew and grind down their teeth. Untreated softwood as chew sticks is recommended. Homemade chews made out of applewood or pine cones should be left to dry for 8-10 months prior to offering them. If not thoroughly dried these can contain toxins such as cyanide and arsenic. A variety of rabbit toys are available online at BusyBunny.com
Rabbits produce two types of droppings. The first most people are familiar with are the dry, spherical feces. However, they produce a second type called cecotrophs. These are softer than their normal fees and may be slightly greener in color. They tend to clump together and look slightly like bunches of grapes. Rabbits will eat these as they supply essential vitamins and microbes to the rabbit in order for them to stay healthy. While this behavior may seem distasteful and strange to us, it is extremely important for their health. You should monitor this behavior and let your veterinarian know if they appear to be leaving these behind largely uneaten.
Neutering and spaying rabbits is very important and will help make your rabbit a much better pet. Intact rabbits can be aggressive. Female rabbits have a high rate of uterine cancer which can be prevented by spaying them. Unspayed female rabbits also have a higher rate of mammary (breast) cancer than spayed rabbits. Male rabbits who have not been neutered will often spray their urine to mark their territories. Spaying and neutering also make it easier to litterbox train a rabbit. Spaying and neutering is best done between 4 and 6 months of age, before they reach sexual maturity.
Rabbits should be examined at least yearly by your veterinarian to make sure they are healthy as to monitor for dental disease. Yearly exams will also help find little problems before they become serious.
Rabbits are very sensitive to antibiotics, some antibiotics can even be deadly. Never give antibiotics to your rabbit, even topical ones applied to the skin, unless you have been directed to do so by your veterinarian. If your rabbit is ever prescribed antibiotics, monitor their appetite and droppings closely. Any changes should be reported to your veterinarian right away.
There is some debate as to whether laxatives to prevent hairballs are actually needed by rabbits. Many now believe hairballs are caused by poor diet. A proper diet rich in long stemmed grass hays is enough to prevent any problems with hairballs. Some still recommend a weekly hairball treatment while the rabbit is shedding their fur. Options include Laxatone, fresh pineapple, and Oxbow Papaya Pineapple tablets. Laxatone can be used at 1 ml per pound of body weight. Fresh pineapple (not canned) is believed to provide digestive enzymes that may break up hairballs. Give ¼ of a 1” thick ring or ½ tsp. of pineapple for every 3-5 pounds of body weight once weekly. Oxbow Papaya Pineapple tablets are probably the easiest option as most rabbits will readily accept and eat them. Follow the instructions on the container as far as dosing.
Most rabbits do not enjoy being picked up or carried. It is not uncommon for them to struggle. When picking up your rabbit it is extremely important that you always support their hind legs. If their legs are left dangling and they kick they can actually kick so hard they can break their backs. Please feel free to ask your veterinarian tips on how to hold and carry your rabbit as well as how clip their toenails properly.
Because of their continuously growing teeth, dental disease in rabbits is more similar to that of horses than dogs and cats. Instead of tartar and plaque, rabbits present with overgrown teeth that cut into their cheeks and may even have abscesses. Many factors contribute to overgrown teeth in rabbits including genetics, confirmation, and improper diet. Rabbits may drool, experience weight loss, and have difficulty eating. Some rabbits may have discharge from their nose or eyes if abscesses are present. Treatment consists of dental filing (a.k.a. floating), pulling diseased teeth, and surgical treatment abscesses along with prescription antibiotics. Some rabbits may be severely ill and require supportive care with assisted feeding may be needed prior to undergoing dental work under anesthesia.
Often caused by a bacteria called Pasteurella multocida, this is the most common infectious disease in rabbits. Rabbits may present with eye discharge and swelling, upper respiratory signs (sneezing, nasal discharge), pneumonia, ear infections, or even skin abscesses. Predisposing factors often involve some degree of improper care. Treatment is with supportive care and prescription antibiotics.
Rabbits present with open sores on their feet caused by rabbits either denied any type of solid flooring or housed in unsanitary conditions. Treatment is cleaning and debridement along with appropriate antibiotics. Husbandry problems also need to be corrected.
Rabbits do get both internal and external parasites. Internal parasites include various worms and coccidia. External parasites include ear mites and Cheyletiella (“walking dandruff”). If a rabbit is diagnosed with ear mites do not clean the ears until after the ear mites have been treated and the inflammation is starting to subside. Cleaning the ears prior to this point can result in a rabbit’s death. Both types of mites are often treated with ivermectin injections or Revolution, a topical anti-parasite medication.
Gastrointestinal stasis is extremely common and can occur primarily due to insufficient dietary fiber or secondary to virtually any other disease process resulting in pain, lethargy or anorexia. Clinical signs include decreased or absent fecal material, anorexia, bruxism, gas or fluid-filled stomach, cecum, and bowels, pain on abdominal palpation, decreased gastrointestinal sounds on auscultation, and in severe cases respiratory and/or cardiovascular compromise. Treatment consists of aggressive supportive care with fluids, pain management, and assisted feeding with a high-fiber liquid diet such as Oxbow’s Herbivore Critical Care. Underlying health problems, such as dental disease, also need to be addressed.
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